Goa rewards anyone willing to drive twenty minutes further. The north is loud and always will be, but the south keeps long, near-empty beaches where the only structure is a shack serving the morning catch. Inland, Fontainhas is a grid of ochre and indigo Portuguese houses, and the spice farms of Ponda sit in genuine jungle. Susegad — the local word for unhurried contentment — is a real design principle here.